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I also prefer manual coding. WYSIWYG's are great as an idea but they are not good enough yet for me to be using them. They DO save time which means money in business world so that's one defence for them although for them to save time you need to learn them from top to bottom and so on for me manual coding is actually faster than using WYSIWYG.
For the learning process I suggest studying others code. "View source" is your best friend but be carefull not to study bad sites with bad code. Same goes for PHP, ASP(.NET), JSP etc... by taking a look at others code you learn how they've done certain things and that helps you getting on with the learning process.
Also remember that you don't need any webspace at all to get started. Basic HTML pages can be seen without any extra work on your local computer and even if you use PHP or some other programming language there are good server packages available for local testing. (XAMPP etc...) Also remember that basic hosting packages with domain names are pretty cheap. They usually come with PHP support so that money doesn't go to waiste if you want to publish your site.
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